Where to stay

Shopping arcades, Nishiki Market and two subway-and-train hubs. Walkable to Gion and well connected everywhere else.

Direct trains to airports and day trips, plus big hotels. Less atmospheric, but easiest with luggage.

Lantern-lit lanes, temples on your doorstep and early walks before the crowds. Rooms book out fast in November.

Museums, Heian Shrine and canal walks, close to Nanzen-ji and Eikan-dō. Calm in the evenings.

A ryokan night here lets you see the bamboo and river after the day visitors leave.

Local shopping streets, the Kamo River delta and the Imperial Palace park. Handy for Kurama by Eizan train.

Quiet residential grid near Nijō Castle and the Manga Museum, on the subway’s crossing lines.